The first Monday in May has passed, which means the international elite gathered once again to celebrate the art of fashion at New York’s Metropolitan Museum. Meanwhile, the rest of us found joy in livestreaming the event from home and judging outfits worth more than our annual salaries. This year’s theme was “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, with the Black dandy as its central figure. The exhibition, as British Vogue explains, explores “the importance of clothing and style to the formation of Black identities in the Atlantic diaspora.” Notably, this is the Costume Institute’s first exhibition since 2003 to focus exclusively on menswear.
The concept was inspired by co-curator Monica Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity”, in which she frames Black dandyism as both an aesthetic and a political practice. The exhibition includes twelve characteristics of Black dandyism, a structural lens influenced by Zora Neale Hurston’s essay “The Characteristics of Negro Expression”. According to the British Vogue, Miller points out that the contemporary designers featured – among them Grace Wales Bonner, Pharrell Williams, and the late Virgil Abloh – are deeply attuned to the themes addressed in the exhibit: race and power, immigration, slavery, colonialism, empowerment, joy, and aesthetics.
This year’s co-chairs were musician and designer Pharrell Williams, actor Colman Domingo, Formula 1 driver Sir Lewis Hamilton, musician A$AP Rocky, and, as always, Vogue editor-in-chief Dame Anna Wintour. NBA legend LeBron James served as an honorary co-chair.
To “provide guidance and invite creative interpretation”, the Met set this year’s dress code as “Tailored for You”. During her blue carpet interview, Wintour emphasised the importance of spotlighting Black talent, especially at this moment in political and cultural history. Dare we say – fashion is political.
Compared to previous Met Galas, we have to admit that this year, most attendees not only showed up but truly showed out. In years past, choosing ten favourite looks – especially in menswear – felt like trying to pick crumbs off the floor. But this time, narrowing it down was a challenge. Still, here is our list of 10 standout looks, in no particular order.
American actor Colman Domingo arrived in a floor-length, royal blue Valentino gown adorned with lace and crystals across the chest and shoulders – an homage to the late André Leon Talley, Vogue’s first African-American male creative director. Underneath, he revealed a black-and-white checkered blazer with a white pearl at the intersection of each square, paired with a white and cream shirt and grey suit trousers, also by Valentino. For accessories, a loosely tied polka-dot ribbon stood in for a traditional tie, and an oversized polka-dot flower was pinned to his chest. In his blue carpet interview, Domingo shared that his look was inspired by various influences: Othello the Moor, royal regalia, and the symbolic power of the colour blue – referencing the story of a freed slave who wanted to wear a superfine blue wool suit. Domingo added that he stands “in a moment not just for myself, but for many men and women as well, who toiled and made sure I had what I had as working-class people”.
American actress Zendaya embodied the theme in a custom all-white Louis Vuitton suit designed by Pharrell Williams. The ensemble featured a single-breasted tuxedo jacket, a waistcoat, a silk shirt and tie, and flared trousers. She topped it off with a wide-brimmed floppy white hat and completed the look with Bulgari earrings and rings. Her slicked-back bun and neutral-toned makeup with a glossy lip added refined elegance. The tailored look paid homage to the Zoot suits of 1970s and 1980s rock-and-roll culture – a key element of Black dandyism. Inspirations included iconic women of the era like Grace Jones and Gladys Bentley. Zendaya’s stylist, Law Roach, even referenced Bianca Jagger’s 1971 wedding suit as a key influence on Instagram.
Puerto Rican rapper/singer Bad Bunny was decked out head to toe in custom Prada. He told Vogue that when he found out the theme was Black fashion, he immediately wanted to connect it to Puerto Rican Afro-Caribbean culture. His brown flared trousers and cropped jacket combination was inspired by 70s salsa legends Willie Colón and Héctor Lavoe. The hat he was wearing, made by De León Headwear, was inspired by the traditional pava, the Puerto Rican jíbaro hat, and his tie was made out of raffia, its original material. His rope-like belt was another nod to the jíbaros of the Puerto Rican mountainside, who used rope to hold up their pants. Bad Bunny’s gloves were embellished with over 600 yellow crystals, his tiepin was a reference to his mother, whose birthday was on the same night, and his flower brooch was by Cartier. The bowling bag he was carrying had a deeper hidden meaning as well, as he told Vogue: “This bag represents everything that I am carrying with me everywhere I go around the world, all the good things that I carry with me.”
American rapper Doechii made her Met Gala debut this year in full custom Louis Vuitton, designed by Pharrell Williams. Her look included a cream and grey LV-monogram tuxedo jacket and shorts in the signature damier. A big burgundy bow was tied around her neck as a statement accessory, along with colour-matching knee-high socks and buckled shoes, a white LV belt on her waist, and a cigar in her hand. Doechii wore her hair in a big natural afro while her makeup look included a Louis Vuitton logo that was stamped on her cheek. Her earrings, ring, and brooch were all courtesy of Tiffany & Co. She stated her main inspiration was a character from Monica Miller’s book, Julius, who stood out to her specifically. While out and about in New York City before the event, Doechii paid homage to the late André Leon Talley as well, wearing a full Louis Vuitton tracksuit while carrying an LV-logo embellished tennis racket and matching luggage – reminiscent of a look the famous editor wore decades before.
American Influencer Emma Chamberlain, who co-hosted the event for Vogue for the fifth consecutive time, wore Courrèges, which marked the French brand’s first appearance at the Met Gala. Her carpet look was a hand-embroidered navy pinstripe dress, with a deconstructed-suit silhouette and an open back. Hand-stitched pinstripe detailing also grazed her matching tulle tights and gloves. Chamberlain first noticed Courrèges at the brand’s show in Paris last year and immediately fell in love. She gushed to Vanity Fair: “A lot of times, we go to shows and it might not necessarily be our personal style, but we’re watching art happen, that sort of thing. But this was, like, so me”. Her jewellery, including earrings, a watch, rings, and glasses, was all vintage and bought on eBay, which she got to keep. Chamberlain’s platinum pixie haircut, smokey eyes, pink blush, and a faint red lip completed the look.
American rapper Chance the Rapper stepped onto the carpet with Donatella Versace as the brand’s only guest. The creme suit was from Versace’s Spring/Summer 1993 collection, the hand-tailored black vest once worn by late rap icon Tupac – an intentional nod to his idol and to Black artistry that transcends generations. His jewellery was exclusively provided by Tiffany & Co., his hat by Shaquita Garcia, and his shoes by Armando Cabral. The musician explained in an interview with Essence that, “every piece was a nod to the Black men who came before [him], who set the stage for artists like [himself] to explore and express the Black diaspora in [their] work – it’s about taking pieces of [their] past and wearing them with pride, honoring the creative legacy of those who broke barriers and paved the way”.
Barbadian singer and all-around icon Rihanna showed up fashionably late as always and presented her new baby bump – the third child she is expecting with partner A$AP Rocky – in custom Marc Jacobs. The look included a black menswear-inspired cropped wool jacket, a grey wool bustier bodysuit, and a black pinstriped wool skirt featuring a bustle fashioned from a tied jacket. Her face was shaded by a custom oversized black hat by Marc Jacobs x Stephen Jones, and her feet were grazed with retro-influenced black and white ankle pumps. Rihanna accessorised her look with a burgundy satin cravat with tiny polka dots attached to a white collar, a dark blue pocket square with polka dots, a silver diamond brooch, and earrings. Her hair was styled into a braid down her back, and her makeup remained soft and nude-toned.
American model Gigi Hadid wore a custom Miu Miu gown, inspired by both designer Zelda Wynn Valdes and actress Josephine Baker. Valdes designed the original Playboy Bunny waitress costume, while Baker was the first Black actress to star in a major motion picture. The dress had a halter neck design, gold glittering texture, and detailing at the waist, and was covered in clear, dangling crystals, replicating a gown worn by Baker in 1951. According to Hadid herself, Valdez “took her technique and the skill in men’s tailoring and applied that to the female form”. She said she hoped Valdes would appreciate the look in homage to her skills. Her accessories included silver diamond earrings, along with yellow diamond rings and eternity bands by De Beers jewellery from the Alchemist of Light collection. Her hair was styled in an Old Hollywood fashion with curls pinned elegantly to the top of her head.
British actor Damson Idris, who will soon portray a Formula 1 driver in the upcoming film ‘F1’, made a dramatic entrance in a race car, wearing a full Formula 1 Tommy Hilfiger race suit in white and a bedazzled Swarovski-crystal helmet. It took two ushers on the carpet to rip the suit off him and reveal a burgundy red and gold plaid three-piece suit – also Tommy Hilfiger. The tailored pants were flared and featured a side satin stripe, while the plaid jacket included 80 hours worth of gold beading and custom buttons. Idris’ jewellery, featuring a costume brooch with green tourmaline, tsavorite, and an 11-carat emerald, was all pieces by his own fine jewellery brand DIDRIS. Regarding the inspiration behind his look, he told Vanity Fair before the gala: “When you see a dandy, you see history, but at the same time, you see innovation. You see confidence, but at the same time, you see vulnerability. And you see everything that that person and the culture have been through. It was the suits that my mother put me in for my birthday, or seeing Sidney Poitier in “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner” – and then dandyism. All of that linked together is what makes me the man I am today and the taste I have when it comes to putting on a tailored suit.”
American socialite Kim Kardashian showed off her signature hourglass silhouette in a black fitted crocodile-leather backless vest and skirt with a statement train by Los Angeles brand Chrome Hearts, which is famous for its rock looks. Her look was topped with a bold black leather hat that she wore lower into her face, a double chain pearl belt, a couple of rings, and a diamond choker with matching earrings by Moussaieff. Her long hair flowed in soft, voluminous curls down her back, and her makeup was kept relatively minimal, with a smoky eye and matte nude lip. On Instagram, Kardashian stated that her look was inspired by musician Lenny Kravitz, who she views as “a modern dandy whose fluid, bold aesthetic, alongside icons like Jimi Hendrix and Miles Davis, pioneered distinct and culturally significant aesthetics – shaping the way men dress for generations to come”. She added that, “Lenny’s signature Chrome Hearts style perfectly captures the spirit of this theme – Black style, razor-sharp tailoring, and dandy tradition”.
Written by Vicky Madzak // cover design by Hope Kensall
GEM Magazine 